With the release of his new fall menu two weeks ago, chef Martin Heuser is bringing seasonal game meats back to Affäre.
An avid hunter himself, Heuser enjoys cooking with game this time of year, when cuts of venison are lean and high in protein.
“In Europe, this is the time of year when game meats are mostly eaten,” Heuser says. “With proper aging, fantastic tenderness can be achieved, and this reduces the 'gamey' flavor that some people associate with these meats.”
Heuser feels that the venison featured on his new fall menu is most similar to deer meat in Germany. There are two game dishes available at dinner only, and both celebrate the fall and winter season perfectly with a rich heartiness perfect for colder weather.
The first dish is a bacon-wrapped, honey-glazed Spanish quail with mushroom duxelle, topped with a casis demi-glace served atop a celery root puree. The salty bacon and sweet honey glaze along with the moist and tender quail meat will have you craving a light red wine to pair.
The other game meat dish is a slow-cooked red deer venison loin topped with huckleberry sauce and served over hazelnut käsespätzle romanesco. The dish features a deep, rich red color, and the loin is sliced and served fanned over the tender spätzle, making it the perfect stick-to-your-ribs fall dish.
Heuser’s wife and business partner in the restaurant, Katrin Heuser, sees and tastes her husband’s passion for game not only at the restaurant, but at home as well.
“Martin loves to hunt – mainly venison, pheasant and turkey, but his favorite to prepare is venison,” says Katrin. “When he hunts deer he uses absolutely everything on the animal. At home, he uses the bones to make demi, and other parts he turns into jerky, and then bits and pieces we cannot use at home are prepared as dog food – it is super important to him that nothing gets wasted.”
With their own passion for game, the Heusers will be proudly hosting The Missouri Hunting Heritage Foundation’s annual Gentleman’s Wild Game Dinner at Affäre on Thu., Nov. 10 from 6:30 to 10pm.
For this annual fundraiser, Heuser is creating a special menu entirely around game meats. There will be pours from local craft distillery Restless Spirits, hand-rolled cigars from Weston Tobacco, hot towel service from Symmetry salon and a silent auction.
If fall has you craving the rich meaty flavors of game, then you’ll want to put Affäre on your list to experience it before the season is gone.
Tickets for the Gentleman’s Wild Game dinner are available here.
Jenny is Feast's contributing editor for Kansas City. She brakes for chef's coats.